Anybody have Used Car Buying Tips

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

I know the general thing, check the car history etc etc... did that.

The car I'm looking to get is a 2009 Volvo c30 R-Design, it has 13,000 miles(which I dunno about everyone else to me is alot to put on a year) I think it's still under manufacturer warranty.



It's currently priced at $23,995 which is right around my magic number for monthly payments. I'd put down roughly 4k so my monthly payments would hopefully be no more than $460 a month for 60 months at like 10.9% APR (which is the worst APR I think I would get I would have my mom cosign and I have good credit I think it was at 736 last time I checked) but being a first-time buyer hurts.

Do you guys think I can drop the price down to at least $21,995? I'd buy a brand new 2010 but I got quoted at $30,000 w/out taxes etc etc and I don't have that cash at least only putting down 4k.

[Sheryl Yoast]

The 13,000 miles on it is pretty irrelevant especially if you plan on driving a lot less then 13K a year which what it seems like you intend to do. I am not wild paying 24 for that car especially if you say you don't have the cash for a 2010 at 30 K, it seems like that this car is at the top end of the range you're willing to pay (especially if there is no warranty). I am not really too familiar with loans but I can tell you that 10.9 is fucking terrible (being from Jersey probably hurts you there). Unless your sold on this car (which I don't know why because its gay) why don't you try looking in like the 40 K mile mark at a car in the 15-17 at like 8.8 at least?

[Sheryl Yoast]

Buy an Altima and blend in with the rest of the state!

[aar]

buy a new car

Go to a bunch of dealerships and you'll walk away with a steal. It's a buyer's market.

[Apollo]

It is indeed a buyer's market. That APR would be terrible. Whatever you want your monthly payment to be at, set that at $20-$50 lower. When you get in to sign the papers, have them tell you your monthly payment, they'll of course have it all broken down on their computer. They'll work with you A LOT more at this point in the sale since it's so close. They'll pull out all the usual stops (if they haven't already) like matching or putting up half of your down payment, that kind of stuff. Also, will you finance through a bank or the dealership? I actually went through Honda Finance and pushed back on the guy so much they actually cut the APR a bit for me, which helped a lot.

Naturally this was after an entire day of searching for used cars, research, etc. So good luck!

[Apollo]

Also, 13K isn't that much. 12K-15K is the norm.

[Matt]

We had a new Volvo a few years back and the car went to shits. Everything and I mean everything broke down and its expensive as hell to fix. After 5 years of owning it, the repair bills cost nearly as much as what we payed for it. They are known to be dependable cars but our Volvo was horrible.

Anyways, 13k isnt too bad after a year, its just about what I put on my car every year. However I drove across country twice, drove to NY, Miami about 15x and drive 100 miles everyday to school.

I agree with Aar, in this market it may be best to buy new. With all the 2010's coming out, go to a dealership and buy a brand new 2009. They will practically beg you to take it off the lot because they need it gone asap. My Mustang was listed at 21k brand new and after 3 days of negotiations we left the lot paying 14k, actually 12k after we traded in our Volvo which wasn't work 1k by itself because of all the parts to replace.

[Tigertecz]

Oct 1, 2009 2:11:44 GMT -5 Matt said:

We had a new Volvo a few years back and the car went to shits. Everything and I mean everything broke down and its expensive as hell to fix. After 5 years of owning it, the repair bills cost nearly as much as what we payed for it. They are known to be dependable cars but our Volvo was horrible.

Anyways, 13k isnt too bad after a year, its just about what I put on my car every year. However I drove across country twice, drove to NY, Miami about 15x and drive 100 miles everyday to school.

I agree with Aar, in this market it may be best to buy new. With all the 2010's coming out, go to a dealership and buy a brand new 2009. They will practically beg you to take it off the lot because they need it gone asap. My Mustang was listed at 21k brand new and after 3 days of negotiations we left the lot paying 14k, actually 12k after we traded in our Volvo which wasn't work 1k by itself because of all the parts to replace.

You drive 100miles every day to school? WTF why?

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 1, 2009 0:33:13 GMT -5 aar said:

buy a new car

Go to a bunch of dealerships and you'll walk away with a steal. It's a buyer's market.

I only want this car nothing else... of course I can walk away with a piece of shit Honda for 14k I don't want that.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 1, 2009 0:22:30 GMT -5 Sheryl Yoast said:

The 13,000 miles on it is pretty irrelevant especially if you plan on driving a lot less then 13K a year which what it seems like you intend to do. I am not wild paying 24 for that car especially if you say you don't have the cash for a 2010 at 30 K, it seems like that this car is at the top end of the range you're willing to pay (especially if there is no warranty). I am not really too familiar with loans but I can tell you that 10.9 is fucking terrible (being from Jersey probably hurts you there). Unless your sold on this car (which I don't know why because its gay) why don't you try looking in like the 40 K mile mark at a car in the 15-17 at like 8.8 at least?

well it's def still under factory warranty which I believe is 4year
50k. 10.9 apr I May be wrong but I don't think it has anything to do with the state you live in regardless that 10.9 is worst case my mom is going to cosign so there's no way I should get that . I tried getting quotes online and I was denied I have great credit just sucks I'm under25 and first time buyer.f u on altima shits gay

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 1, 2009 2:11:44 GMT -5 Matt said:

We had a new Volvo a few years back and the car went to shits. Everything and I mean everything broke down and its expensive as hell to fix. After 5 years of owning it, the repair bills cost nearly as much as what we payed for it. They are known to be dependable cars but our Volvo was horrible.

Anyways, 13k isnt too bad after a year, its just about what I put on my car every year. However I drove across country twice, drove to NY, Miami about 15x and drive 100 miles everyday to school.

I agree with Aar, in this market it may be best to buy new. With all the 2010's coming out, go to a dealership and buy a brand new 2009. They will practically beg you to take it off the lot because they need it gone asap. My Mustang was listed at 21k brand new and after 3 days of negotiations we left the lot paying 14k, actually 12k after we traded in our Volvo which wasn't work 1k by itself because of all the parts to replace.

yeah I've been looking to go new but I don't know.. I'm not buying this car for any more than $21,000. That's going to be my offer and if they won't budge I'll tell them to give me a call in a week if they don't have an owner. I'm pretty sure they'll call me in 2 days if they let me walk away. They still make their 5% profit, more likely more because they probably made a hell of a profit off the trade-in and I get a car that's been selling on Ebay(with less miles) for $25,000 and up.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 1, 2009 1:33:41 GMT -5 Apollo said:

It is indeed a buyer's market. That APR would be terrible. Whatever you want your monthly payment to be at, set that at $20-$50 lower. When you get in to sign the papers, have them tell you your monthly payment, they'll of course have it all broken down on their computer. They'll work with you A LOT more at this point in the sale since it's so close. They'll pull out all the usual stops (if they haven't already) like matching or putting up half of your down payment, that kind of stuff. Also, will you finance through a bank or the dealership? I actually went through Honda Finance and pushed back on the guy so much they actually cut the APR a bit for me, which helped a lot.

Naturally this was after an entire day of searching for used cars, research, etc. So good luck!

well I was told that it's better to get quotes online or from other banks before going to the dealer so when they try to pull the "believe me this "insert ridiculously high APR here" is the best you will get anywhere!" scheme I can say well you're wrong this bank finances me for less than what you offer.

If my APR is any more than 6, I think I'll walk. I'm not in an incredible need to buy a new car.. my Volkwagen although it does have it's problems still runs and drives which is all I need but I'm in love with this Volvo car so bad, and when I want something I usually don't stop until I get it.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 1, 2009 6:13:11 GMT -5 SOME BIG ASS TDS said:

Oct 1, 2009 0:33:13 GMT -5 aar said:

buy a new car

Go to a bunch of dealerships and you'll walk away with a steal. It's a buyer's market.

I only want this car nothing else... of course I can walk away with a piece of shit Honda for 14k I don't want that.

Also, there aren't many Volvo dealerships in the area and 3 of the biggest are owned by the same people so it's not like I can be competitive with the rates. I was thinking of trying Delaware(no sales tax) but I'm to lazy to drive down there.

[Apollo]

My APR ended up being something like 6.6 which was pretty good considering my age.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

my bank Sovereign just called me a little awhile ago they approve me for 8.4% but I'm heavily protected in case I lose my job etc.

So I went to the dealer... the car has scratches all over the place. It took 30 mins for someone to see us and the guy who I called about the car didn't even show up. I test drove it, seems ok. I asked the guy I test drove with if people had come to see the car he said yeah a few people. Well, the odometer still read the same amount of miles it says on-line DOH! Idiot.

I had the papers they didn't know what to do, they wouldn't budge from $23995. I told him the best I could do is $20,000 nothing they wouldn't lower it they would only sell it for $22k and change W/ out extended warranty GET real!

Apparently the last owner was a photography company that buys cars from Volvo for photo shoots, yet, the car has 13,000 miles and is full of scratches? I told the guy if it's for photography don't you think they'd take better care of the car? He didn't know what to say.

I walked out, left my offer at $20,000 and told him to give me a call in about a week if they didn't sell the car. I bet my mom that they'll call before a week.

[Matt]

say goodbye to yo mom

[Apollo]

Oct 3, 2009 3:08:29 GMT -5 Matt said:

say goodbye to yo mom

LOL

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

yeah thats hillarious

[GMGreggor]

If you're gonna go used it needs to be more than just a yr old or there's no point.

If you want something newer than 5 yrs old just get a new one.
Unless.... you're gonna pay cash. If you're gonna finance it though get a new one believe me.

Or lease one, payments are less and it'll help your credit as well.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 9, 2009 8:51:03 GMT -5 GMGreggor said:

If you're gonna go used it needs to be more than just a yr old or there's no point.

If you want something newer than 5 yrs old just get a new one.
Unless.... you're gonna pay cash. If you're gonna finance it though get a new one believe me.

Or lease one, payments are less and it'll help your credit as well.

What? As soon as your brand new car leaves the dealer lot the value of said car is already devalued by $1,000-2,000. Why would I go new if I could get a 1 year old model, same options and everything, factory warranty for $5,000-6,000 less than a brand new price?

I would never buy a used car that is more than 5 years old.

and leases are terrible.

[GMGreggor]

Oct 9, 2009 8:54:45 GMT -5 SOME BIG ASS TDS said:

Oct 9, 2009 8:51:03 GMT -5 GMGreggor said:

If you're gonna go used it needs to be more than just a yr old or there's no point.

If you want something newer than 5 yrs old just get a new one.
Unless.... you're gonna pay cash. If you're gonna finance it though get a new one believe me.

Or lease one, payments are less and it'll help your credit as well.

What? As soon as your brand new car leaves the dealer lot the value of said car is already devalued by $1,000-2,000. Why would I go new if I could get a 1 year old model, same options and everything, factory warranty for $5,000-6,000 less than a brand new price?

I would never buy a used car that is more than 5 years old.

and leases are terrible.

Depends on the lease. But the main point is wait until the inventory turns over and you'll get a new one that's a yr old for damn near the same price as that used one. Makes no sense to buy a yr old used model when you can get a yr old new model for damn near the same thing.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 9, 2009 9:03:41 GMT -5 GMGreggor said:

Oct 9, 2009 8:54:45 GMT -5 SOME BIG ASS TDS said:

What? As soon as your brand new car leaves the dealer lot the value of said car is already devalued by $1,000-2,000. Why would I go new if I could get a 1 year old model, same options and everything, factory warranty for $5,000-6,000 less than a brand new price?

I would never buy a used car that is more than 5 years old.

and leases are terrible.

Depends on the lease. But the main point is wait until the inventory turns over and you'll get a new one that's a yr old for damn near the same price as that used one. Makes no sense to buy a yr old used model when you can get a yr old new model for damn near the same thing.

I wish $5-6,000 were the same thing for my wallet as it is with yours.

[GMGreggor]

Oct 9, 2009 9:04:52 GMT -5 SOME BIG ASS TDS said:

Oct 9, 2009 9:03:41 GMT -5 GMGreggor said:

Depends on the lease. But the main point is wait until the inventory turns over and you'll get a new one that's a yr old for damn near the same price as that used one. Makes no sense to buy a yr old used model when you can get a yr old new model for damn near the same thing.

I wish $5-6,000 were the same thing for my wallet as it is with yours.

When they have the new models come in, they sell the old ones for less PLUS will give you better financing. Thats the key. The car may cost a little more but they'll give you better financing to move it in many cases. So you'll end up paying about the same.

[SOME BIG ASS TDS]

Oct 9, 2009 9:07:48 GMT -5 GMGreggor said:

Oct 9, 2009 9:04:52 GMT -5 SOME BIG ASS TDS said:

I wish $5-6,000 were the same thing for my wallet as it is with yours.

When they have the new models come in, they sell the old ones for less PLUS will give you better financing. Thats the key. The car may cost a little more but they'll give you better financing to move it in many cases. So you'll end up paying about the same.

Yes, that is fine if there is old inventory to sell, when there is no inventory to sell I obviously can not do this which is almost always the case with European cars and I don't want a shitty American car.

[GMGreggor]

Ahh, I see.